Takamatsu, 11.05.24

One of the most famous attractions in Takamatsu are the Ritsurin Gardens supposedly one of the ten most beautiful gardens of Japan. No trip to Japan is really complete without having been to at least one of these gardens. 

Ritsurin Garden was ordered to be built by a feudal lord of Takamatsu around 1625. There are tea-houses, the Moon-scooping Pavilion, exquisite and perfect dating back to 1640. They still serve tea in there to the tourists for a small charge. But one has to sit on the floor, on the tatami mats. Impossible for me. Then there are lovely lakes, Sai-Ko and Nan-Ko and shaped black pines everywhere. 

Ritsurin Garden Scene

All this garden scenery is set against the backdrop of a verdant green hill, Purple Cloud Mountain, out of which a waterfall plunges into a pool where nearby a grove among the rocks once gave shelter from the summer heat to the lords of Takamatsu. The garden was designated as a Special Place of Scenic Beauty in 1953. It is meant to be strolled through taking in all the trees and flowers, the ponds and streams and the beautifully placed teahouses. It would be different in every season and when we were there the water lilies just started to flower.

Water Lilies

 

We did not spend all day in the garden and made our way back to Takamatsu Railway Station where we took a train to another area, the Kinashi neighbourhood, where they grow Bonsai trees. Nearly 80% of all Bonsai trees in Japan are produced here. We got off the train at Kokubu Station, a cute and tiny stop with no gates and just one ticketing machine. 

Nearby was also a temple called Sanuki Kokobunji Temple. It is one of the 88 temples which circle the island of Shikoku. A 1200 year old trail connects all of these temples, a distance of about 1100 kilometres. It takes 40 to 60 days to complete the circuit. The pilgrims traditionally walk in a white uniform, a hakui or jacket, white pants or skirt, a purple cotton or silk scarf, wagesa, a straw hat and a walking stick with a bell. This temple is number 80 on the pilgramage trail.

 

It was a delight because it was quiet with few people and most of them were genuine pilgrims, praying, lighting candles or incense sticks and giving a small offering. One does almost feel out of place. So we just did as the pilgrims did hoping not to disturb the peace too much with our presence, like taking pictures and talking loud. Who knows by showing respect for their traditions they might even include us in their prayers! Throughout the temple grounds were small Buddha statues all with their own little shrine. My favourite ones are the laughing Buddhas! They are found in most places. They lighten up everything. Even the deepest philosophical questions, the largest problems and the biggest worries become somehow unimportant. As an observation there are not many laughing images in Christian medieval art. The exception being smiling angels on a few cathedrals.

Laughing Buddhas

From the temple we used little back streets through the village until we were forced to walk along a main highway in the heat of the day hoping to find the Bonsai village. After asking in a restaurant it transpired just to be around the corner and so it was. But it was in the form of a huge garden centre with probably thousands of Bonsai trees for sale. 

Japanese House and Garden on way to Bonsai trees

Some of these nurseries have been in business since the early 19th century when local farmers used the abundant Japanese black pine and with their botanical knowledge, as from fruit growing and pruning, to make Bonsai trees. It turned in an industry in its own right and started flourishing especially after the Second World War. Now over 40 nurseries sell their trees all over the world and buyers can choose from some 10000 trees. Smaller Bonsai are about 10 to 15 years old but then some are over 40 years old. This is reflected in the price and we saw quite a few costing in the thousands of dollars.

Back in Takamatsu we went to the arcade again for dinner. This time it was to taste the Udon noodles for which this area is famous. It was a surprise. Christine went for a curry Udon dish which was very tasty and I opted for Udon noodles with tempura vegetables. My noodles came on a bamboo mat and were completely cold. There was a dipping sauce and some pickles plus the tempura vegetables. 

Udon Curry

Udon Tempura

Interesting to see was a father with his three kids taking the table next to us. He order for each of the children an Udon noodle dish and extra plates of food. The whole table was laden with food. Enormous. How could they all eat the stuff? Even I struggled to finish my portion of Udon noodles. A delicious beer helped to wash it all down.