Hinomisaki, 26.05.24

Today was our last full day in Japan. So we did not plan any big sightseeing trip but just a relaxed day in Hinomisaki. Strolling around, taking in the scenery, lounge about and even reminisce. As it was Monday the village was very quiet. We walked from the hotel along the cliffs and visited the lighthouse, walked further to one more and one last temple, taking in the views of the sea and a small island which is a breeding ground of black-tailed gulls. It was covered with hundreds maybe thousands of birds. 

The Lighthouse

It was located not far from the hotel basically in the next port and fishing village. The shrine is dedicated to the gods Amaterasu and Susanoo, brother and sisters, and deities of the sea and storms. Priests from this shrine spread the idea that the province of Izumo is the gateway to the underworld. We were almost the only visitors and free to discover the grounds. No shops, no cafe or restaurant just a few people praying and offering incense sticks. There was also a lovely little grove with a water feature all hidden in the shade of tall trees. 

The small grove

On the way home we wandered through the village and had a stop in a restaurant where we had a beer. For food they offered squid which was put on skewers and displayed in a little cabinet. No refrigeration. Then they had a box full of sea snails looking very much alive. I watched another couple, Japanese, ordering a squid and a snail. The owner of the restaurant basted the squid several times before putting it onto a tiny grill and cooked it until it just turned opaque and then he crisscrossed it with his knife. They also ordered one of the snails. He put it directly onto the coals until it sort of started to bubble and served it with a stick stuck into it. The woman ate the squid and he the snail. I found it hard to watch. The man prized the snail, quite thick and large, out of the shell and started to chew into it. Ghastly just to watch. Outside the shop were also loads of squid hanging from steel frames to dry in the wind. Strangely no flies around. 

Squid and Snails

We slowly made our way back to hotel and had an ice cream just below the lighthouse where there were a few souvenir shops and cafes. I gave in to temptation and had another soak in the Onsen pool looking over the ocean and the islands. Dinner was served again in a booth, just the two of us. The waiter let us know that he was part of the dance show they put on every night and that it was his first go at it. He wanted us to come and see. We could not say no and the dance was really worthwhile watching. This time it was outside as the wind had died down. He did a good job and did not miss a beat. What a lovely stay this was by the seaside in such strange surroundings.