Aso, 18.05.24

Aso was one of those remote places we wanted to visit, not sure why really, but it just happened to have a Kai resort hotel that looked intriguing to stay at. An onsen hotel no less. The only problem was how to get there on public transport. 

We did ask the reception at the hotel in Beppu what was the best way to get to Aso. They suggested a train to Oita, just along the coast from Beppu, and then by another train to Aso. Sounded easy enough. But at the end of the day, after quite a stressful arrival at Aso, I wondered why they had no better information. The hotel we went to was after all part of the same group of hotels, Hoshino, and Kai. 

Oita Railway Station

Outside the hotel was in fact a bus station with a connection directly to the Oita railway station. Taking the bus saved us from trundling our luggage all the way up to Beppu railway station. Not that it was all that far just a bit of trouble so why not do it the easy way. 

Oita Railway Station Mascot

Oita proved to be quite a pleasant city with a large railway station where we bought our tickets to Aso. The only thing was there were only two trains per day and the morning one had already gone so we had to wait a few hours. We put our luggage into some lockers and went for a walk. There is not that much to see in Oita and we ended up in a large department store which we had not done before, not in Tokyo, nor in Osaka or Kyoto. But Japanese department stores are famous for all the products and produce they sell over usually several floors. This one was no exception. The kitchen and cooking department had really a wonderful selection of all sorts of gadgets. The glasses and porcelain stall was impressive too and the food hall had all things Japan. Very interesting what they sell for takeaways and meals. Lots of fish and surprisingly always a huge range of meats. We made it all the way to the top floor which had an exhibition of antique china, and we spent quite some time looking at the plates and cups and vases on display. Very expensive too but the attendant let us have a good look and showed us some very precious pieces. There was also a gallery and a demonstration on Ikebano flower arrangement. All very nice to while some time away. 

Cups and Saucers

Back at the railway station we had a small lunch and coffee and were soon off in a local train. Soon we realised that getting to Aso was not all that straightforward. The ticket man told us to get off along the line, it was the Hohi JR line, and change train at Bungo-Taketa. No problem the train was just on the other side of the platform. It took not too long and another ticket man came along and told us to change train yet again at Miyaji. Slightly perplexed we did as told and waited for another connection which duly arrived. To our surprise the new train was all posh and beautifully fitted inside with upholstered seats, painted ceiling and brass handles everywhere and even had a restaurant car and staff in tailored uniforms wearing white gloves. It was a tourist train for sightseers as they have them in Japan. For us it was only a short ride to the next station, Aso. 

Tourist Train

It was a tiny station but quite busy outside and from what we could see a nice village not far away with shops and restaurants. But we wanted to get to the hotel. Taking a taxi was the best option we thought and by chance there was one right there on the kerb. The taxi driver did not speak much English but he understood my directions in Japanese! Off we go and he just drives through the country side, on and on, and we expected to come to a village soon and to our hotel. After about 20 minutes, and the meter clocking up a fair amount of Yen, I did ask how much longer it was. Well another 40 minutes at least! For goodness sake where is this place. 

After half an hour the road started to climb up and the taxi driver with the help of his phone and Google languages asked us if we would like to have a small stop at a lookout point to see the valley of Aso and all the fields below and the mountains in the distance. Why not. It was indeed a spectacular view and well worth the stop. 

View over Aso

But the hotel was nowhere near and the taxi driver started to feel our concern as to how long it took. Another twenty minutes! We had by now been in the taxi for more than an hour! But at last he went off the road, down a small driveway and finally we made it. The fare was around $100.00 and Christine was not very happy. It was probably bad of the hotel not to have advised us on how to get to it. Maybe as everybody else arrives in their own cars it did not even occur to them. But the worst thing was that the advice given by the hotel in Beppu was misleading because we found out later on that a bus would have taken us from Beppu railway station right to the hotel passing it on the highway! Never mind. A little adventure. 

Kai Aso proved to be a rather lovely hotel. It had a fantastic view over the forests to some distant mountains. The rooms were all individual cabins with their own lounge, bedroom, bathroom and an outdoor private onsen hot pool. So all was good. 

Dinner at Aso

Dinner was also booked and again it was one of those Kaiseki dinner affairs with endless courses of food all delicately served mostly in tiny porcelain dishes. We tasted all of the things and while some of it was pleasing to our palate a lot of it was not. That is not the fault of the cook or the cuisine it is just that we are not used to this kind of Japanese food. We cannot judge it or even appreciate it as it is just too different from our normal European diet. At least nothing was still alive. Christine made sure of that with the reception.