Naoshima, 08.07.24

In the morning we took the nine o'clock boat back to Arashiyama where we had a taxi booked to take us to the main railway station and the JR line into Kyoto where we changed onto a Shinkansen all the way down to Okayama. It was a kind of sad or melancholy departure gliding on the calm and quiet river, surrounded by thick forest, just the two of us and the boat driver. 

Hotel from barge on departure

But the world had us again soon enough. And among the crowds at the Kyoto Railway Station made us almost forget the previous two days. While waiting for the train we had a coffee and some pastries for breakfast in a Starbucks Cafe! Quite a number of Europeans had the same idea craving some real food. 

The Shinkansen arrived right on time and took off right on time as is the custom in Japan. This particular train was called Nozomi and is super-fast. But the ride in our green car seats was very comfortable and quiet. It took just under an hour to get to Okayama where we had to find the platform with a train going to Umo, a small port on the Seto Inland Sea of Japan from which we had to catch a ferry across to Naoshima Island. It all worked like clockwork. 

The Ferry

The crossing over to Naoshima was lovely on a calm sea on a sunny day but it was quite short. From the moment we stepped ashore we had the feeling of being in a different world. Like going onto a Mediterranean island. Naoshima is called an art island, one of several 'art islands' all clustered around the same area and all accessible by ferry.   And here we were in the harbour, at Miyanoura Port, looking at several works of art, even the arrival terminal was a kind of artwork designed by the famous SANAA

architects. 

View from balcony

The bus from Benesse House, where we stayed, was already waiting and took us over a small pass and through narrow streets to the hotel. Access to the hotel was through a guarded entrance after which only bicycles were allowed. A small road led up to the reception. The building was pure concrete and designed by Tadao Ando. One could almost call it a brutalist kind of architecture. And indeed, our room was concrete walls softened with wooden furniture and several artworks on the walls. But the big feature was a large window looking out over the sea and a balcony to sit outside. 

The Room

Easy to settle in here but we took the time we had before dinner to see the rest of the hotel which is at the same time a gallery and open to outside visitors. It was mostly modern art and installations. Not quite our taste though some of it was rather nice. 

Dinner we had booked in the Japanese restaurant of the hotel and it was again one of those elaborate Kaiseki dinner affairs. Lots of courses and all served in tiny, beautiful dishes, a feast to see but a challenge to eat. For a change I also ordered a bottle of wine and very unlike me, after tasting it I had to send it back. Two beers please!

First Course